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false's picture
Jan 27th 2016
It would probaly be easier if you used 6/7mm prusik cord for your chalk bag and a another prusik already tied as a gear sling for your rack.

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false's picture
Jan 27th 2016
They where Five Ten Anasazi Moccasyms. When Chris Sharma climbed Dreamcatcher he was still sponsored by Five Ten. In the video you can also see him wearing the Anasazi VS. Ironicaly the VS had a bad heel design at the time which five ten changed on later versions of the shoe and the Moccasyms aren't known for known for there heel hooking abilities.

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Tape

28th Nov 2015
2.7K
Dave Thexton's picture
Climbing Gear Geek
Dec 4th 2015
Hey Jonas, Most climbing tape is very similar, although some climbers will swear by certain brands. The main difference is usually the width. Another thing you may need to keep in mind is if you have an allergy to the glue on the tape, it's very rare but not unheard of. You can find the three options that we currently sell here: https://shop.epictv.com/en/products?search_api_views_fulltext=tape&f[0]=field_category%3A1695 Hope that helps, Dave

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Dave Thexton's picture
Climbing Gear Geek
Nov 4th 2015
Hey Alva, We have come up trumps on this one sorry! What we can say though, is that the Link Cams from Omega pacific boast similar strengths to other cams around the same sizes. The strength rating is a measure of the weakest part of the cam so you can be sure that even at the smallest and biggest working ranges of the link cams, your safety is no more compromised than it would be with other manufacturers of cams. Hope that helps, Dave

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Dave Thexton's picture
Climbing Gear Geek
Nov 4th 2015
Hi Laurelle, This is my kind of question! Cam lobes aren't all the exact same shape, but they are all forms of logarithmic spirals. The key property of a logarithmic spiral is that any straight line originating from the centre of the spiral will always intersect the spiral at the same angle. The reason for integrating this shape in the construction of cam lobes, is that the lobe will make make contact with the rock at the same angle throughout the cam's entire range. Depending actual angle is dependent on the shape of the lobe.... (more)

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Dave Thexton's picture
Climbing Gear Geek
Nov 4th 2015
Hi Camella, The easiest way to tell is to compare the size of the lobes on either side of the axle. If they are different then you are holding an offset. Some companies also use different colours on the lobes to help you differentiate, and the BlackDiamond offsets even have multi-coloured slings that let you differentiate your offsets even when they are dangling from your harness! Hope that helps, Dave

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Dave Thexton's picture
Climbing Gear Geek
Nov 4th 2015
Hi Laurelle, There are a few differences in the designs, chief among them are that double axle designs have a greater expansion range but they are usually a little heavier too. The trigger action of both design of cam is also slightly different. If you are thinking to buy your first set of cams but are unsure which type to get, maybe you can borrow each type from your friends to find out which you prefer Another interesting feature of some twin-axle cams is that they can, in theory, be placed passively.... (more)

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Dave Thexton's picture
Climbing Gear Geek
Nov 4th 2015
Hi Shayne, The Freino carabiner will help to increase the friction through the belay device, but it is no substitute for a prusik. It is possible to rappel without using a prusik, however, it is much, much safer to use one. There are also many situations where you may need a spare hand while abseiling, like stripping quickdraws from a sport route or building the next rappel anchor on a multi-pitch decent. In these cases especially, it is highly recommended that you use a prusik. Hope that helps, Dave

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