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Dave Thexton's picture
Climbing Gear Geek
Jul 28th 2015
Hi Laurelle, A fall factor is a measure of the distance fallen divided by the amount of rope in the system. A factor 1 fall would constitute a climber falling above their first piece of gear and the rope catching them back at the belay. In this example the climber has clearly fallen the same length as their rope so it is factor 1. A factor 2 fall would constitute a climber not placing any gear at all and falling the same distance below the belay as they had been above it when they fell.... (more)

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Dave Thexton's picture
Climbing Gear Geek
Jul 28th 2015
Hi Emil, If intend to do a lot of traditional climbing routes then we would recommend two half ropes. As for length, 60m should cover you for everything apart from very long sport pitches (but always tie a knot in the end of your rope if your even the slightest bit unsure). If you are using half ropes then you may get away with two 50m ropes but the extra 10m can become a very welcome bonus if you are trying to escape a multi-pitch route quickly. Hope that helps, Dave

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Dave Thexton's picture
Climbing Gear Geek
Jul 28th 2015
Correction: the new Serenity rope is now 8.7mm diameter and so is not suitable for use with the Grigri.

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Dave Thexton's picture
Climbing Gear Geek
Jul 27th 2015
Hi Camella, We have a few tricks up our sleeve for this problem. 1. Draw it back on: There are some tests that show the strength of a rope can be weakened by using a normal pen but it is unlikely the effect has more impact than tying a knot in the rope. To be safe, we recommend a specialist pen for doing this, such as the Sharpie Rub-a-Dub laundry marker. 2. Sew dental floss into the sheath: We're not really sure why dental floss has become the popular choice instead of just using some nylon thread, we can only imagine it appeals to the dirtbag side of every climber.... (more)

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