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Dave Thexton's picture
Climbing Gear Geek
Aug 25th 2015
Hi Alex, The only time I would advise rapping into Gogarth with a static rope would be if you are unsure you will be able to climb back out. If this is the case then you must leave your rap rope in place so that you can ascend back up it if need be. It is significantly easier to ascend a static rope compared to a dynamic climbing rope. Hope that helps, Dave

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Dave Thexton's picture
Climbing Gear Geek
Aug 25th 2015
Hi Silas, The Klemheist and French prusik are tied in slightly different ways; the Klemhiest involves looping the pusik through itself and clipping that end, while with the French prusik, you simply clip both ends of the prusik. Check out this website for more information on how to tie the knots: http://www.animatedknots.com/indexclimbing.php?LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com There is very little functional difference between the knots. Unlike a standard prusik knot, both are unidirectional, meaning that they will only grip on the rope if pulled the right way.... (more)

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Dave Thexton's picture
Climbing Gear Geek
Aug 25th 2015
Hi Shannon, I'm not sure there is a "best" knot to use but there are some which are much more common than others. The re-threaded figure of 8 knot is probably the most common method of tying in and is suitable for any type of climbing. The bowline knot is popular amongst sport climbers owing to the fact that it is much easier to undo, even if it has been fallen on many times.... (more)

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Dave Thexton's picture
Climbing Gear Geek
Aug 3rd 2015
Hi Sean, It is not unusual to see anchors created from loops of 6mm cord and sometimes even 5mm. It is especially common to see this used on alpine routes. Cord is a much cheaper and safer anchor option than using slings (especially dyneema) with the only sacrifice being a little extra weight. Be sure to look up which knots to tie in the cord before you head off up your route! Hope that helps, Dave

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Steve Walton's picture
EpicTV Head of Technology & Digital Marketing
Aug 3rd 2015
I use a 10.3mm rope and it seems to work pretty well with that!

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