Ice Screws

Ice Screws

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Latest Ice Screws questions

Dave Thexton's picture
Climbing Gear Geek
Aug 26th 2015
Hi Silas, It can be hard, but as with most things, practice is the key. To make it easier, try to look for natural features that might give you a target to aim for, or features that require much less screwing. Some large icicles for example can simply be slung, requiring no effort at all. Hope that helps, Dave

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Dave Thexton's picture
Climbing Gear Geek
Aug 26th 2015
Hi Mikhael, Unlike traditional rock climbing protection, you shouldn't try to place ice screws above your head. You should try to make a stable platform with your feet wide and at the same height, make sure you have a solid axe placement with which to hold onto with your free hand. Place the screw around the height of your belly, ideally, your forearm should push the screw into the ice perpendicularly.... (more)

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Dave Thexton's picture
Climbing Gear Geek
Aug 26th 2015
Hi Alva, The strength of ice anchors is always fairly difficult to ascertain due to the changeable nature of ice. However, here is a link to a very in-depth analysis of the strength of different ice anchors including Abalakov threads: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=4315 Hope that helps, Dave

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Dave Thexton's picture
Climbing Gear Geek
Aug 20th 2015
Hi Hasse, Your question is a little condition dependent. If the thread is drilled properly then it will be safe, your problem may come when you try to remove the rope. The movement of the rope can melt the ice which can subsequently re-freeze making it extremely difficult to remove the rope. This page/video might be of some help: http://www.petzl.com/EN/Sport/Video--The-basics-of-ice-climbing--ice-screw-placement--belays--v-threads?ProductName=LASER-SPEED#.VdW8S_lViko Hope that helps, Dave

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Dave Thexton's picture
Climbing Gear Geek
Aug 5th 2015
Hi Jerries, The vaults come with the option of a wiregate opening which will be 61g and a locking gate which will be 72g. Hope that helps, Dave

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Dave Thexton's picture
Climbing Gear Geek
Aug 5th 2015
Hi Jaylin, The new laser speed light screws are all UIAA certified to hold a fall. The strength of ice screw is too dependent on the placement and quality of the ice so the actual difference in strength of the metal will make little difference in real life scenarios. All we can say is that the new screws are just as safe as the steel versions in similar placements. Hope that helps, Dave

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