Italian strong man Stefano Ghisolfi made a pilgrimage to the Spanish climbing mecca of Margalef to attempt a piece of climbing history. 'Demencia Senil' (9a+/5.15a), first established by Chris Sharma in 2009, is a monumentally steep roof climbed almost exclusively on small, sharp pockets. The brutal nature of the climbing means that it has seen relatively few repeats and even fewer since a crucial hold was broken. Stefano and fellow Italian Gabri Moroni are in Margalef to try the line, working out a new way past the broken hold and trying to dial in the insane mono-dyno that is the only way through the final section of roof. While Gabri is unsuccessful, Stefano puts in a precise redpoint effort and clips the chains. His story in Margalef is far from over however and he plans to return for another Sharma classic; 'First Round, First Minute' (9b/5.15b). So far this line has only been climbed by Chris Sharma and Adam Ondra, so a third ascent would be something truly special.
Stefano Ghisolfi Repeats Chris Sharma's 'Demencia Senil' (9a+) | The Italian Climbing Files, Ep. 5
The Italian Climbing Files is a series of mini profiles of some of the best rock climbers in Italy. With in-depth interviews and fresh new climbing footage, it delves deep into the climbing culture of this storied land and gives you unprecedented access to its most compelling personalities.
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