Squamish's Cacodemon boulder is home to quite possibly the most stunning lines on granite. The venue was thrust into the international spotlight by Chris Sharma's first ascent of the now world-renowned 'Dreamcatcher' (9a/5.14d), which tackles the most impressive line on the bloc. However, the other routes on the boulder, while not as difficult as 'Dreamcatcher,' have just as much claim to be considered classics. In this episode of The Granite Life, Squamish regular Mike Foley shows us why. First up is the aptly-named groove climb 'Permanent Waves' (8b/5.13d) a truly striking line with climbing to match. The route is accessed by climbing a series of nails driven into a tree at the base of the boulder. An unusual start, but one that looks positively normal compared to that of Mike's second Cacodemon route, 'Silent Menace' (8c+/5.14c), which starts with an accuracy-dependent jump across a huge drop. (Luckily, it's possible to clip the first two bolts before making the jump!) One might expect such an outlandish move to be the crux of the route but with hard pulls on tiny crimps to come, things are only just getting started!
Jump-Starting To Slopers On 'Silent Menace' (8c+/5.14c) | The Granite Life Ep. 3
The Granite Life is a series unveiling the coolest climbing routes and problems hidden deep in the Squamish forest. From Kilian Fischhuber attempting Chris Sharma's classic Dreamcatcher (5.14d) to Anna Stöhr powering through some of the valley's best problems, there are so many amazing lines here, climbed and unclimbed, that will test your strength, creativity, and nerves to the very limit. Come get inspired and get lost in the granite of Squamish.
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Climbing Daily - The freshest news in bouldering, sport climbing and alpinism presented by Matt Groom. Matt is a climber, mountaineer and long-term admirer of Jimmy Webb's beard. Based in Chamonix, France, he'll be bringing you all the late...
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