Two years, two unsuccessful attempts to climb the west face of the Torre Egger in Patagonia. Matteo Bernasconi and Matteo Della Bordella are tired and demoralized. Their second effort almost killed both of them and it takes nine months of licking their mental wounds to get back the motivation to give it one more try. For their third attempt they inject new life into their partnership with the 22-year old Luca Schiera.
But even the new blood can't help when the famously-inclement Patagonian weather descends and keeps them from climbing for 35 days. Berna eventually heads home but Della Bordella and Schiera stay, knowing that their chances of summiting are only around fifty percent. After yet another week they receive news over the satellite phone that they are going to get four precious days of good weather. It's now or never.
Partners Separate in Final Push for Summit of the Egger | The Egger Project, Ep. 4
On Saturday 2 March 2013, Matteo della Bordella and Luca Schiera made the first ascent of a new route breaching the West Face of Torre Egger (Cerro Torre massif, Patagonia) - the last big wall unclimbed in Patagonia.
The adventure leading up to this was 2 years in the making. Matteo Bernasconi and Matteo Della Bordella worked doggedly and courageously in their pursuit of their goal. They had to fight against a countinous overhanging line, rock fall, and the infamously horrific Patagonian weather. The days spent in a snow cave by Bernasconi and Della Bordella will bring a smile to your face while the risks and moments of panic endured in the second year will last long in the memory.
The Egger project series is also a metaphor for life - focusing, enduring, struggling and in the end accomplishing through hard work and determination.
If there’s one thing we love almost as much as charging around the great outdoors, it’s geeking out over the gear that gets us there. Get the lowdown on all the climbing gear you need, from the guys at EpicTV who put them to the test in...
Subscribe to our newsletter
Be the first one to hear about our weekly deals on climbing gear.
EPICTV, the EPICTV logo and all other EPICTV marks are trademarks of Elisa Oyj. Banana Fingers and the Banana Fingers logo are trademarks of Banana Fingers Ltd.