Every 2 years, the International Federation of Sport Climbing hosts a Boulder World Championships, which is a stand alone competition, separate from the World Cup Tour. Last weekend saw Munich host the 2014 edition and a huge crowd of over 6000 turned up to the city’s Olympic Stadium to watch the action, which couldn’t have been any more gripping if you’d tried to script it.
The semi finals alone were exciting enough and saw some of the biggest names in bouldering, including Mina Markovic in the womens and Sean McColl and Kilian Fischhuber in the mens, get eliminated.
The finals themselves were nail biting in the mens and womens competitions, both of which came down to the final problem. Jan Hojer, Adam Ondra and Slovenian Jernej Kruder did the first 3 problems in the mens final and when Kruder then topped out of the 4th and final problem, it looked like he could be an unlikely winner. However, Adam then did the problem on just his second go, meaning that because he’d taken fewer attempts on the other problems, Jan had 4 attempts at the final one and if he did it, he’d take the win. Unfortunately for him, the deafening support of his home crowd wasn’t enough and he had to settle for third place, giving Adam the win and Jernej second.
The problems in the womens competition looked even tougher and none of the 6 finalists could complete problem 3. However, thanks to strong performances in problems 1 and 2, the final essentially became a straight shoot out, on the very last problem, between Alex Puccio and Juliane Wurm. The crux move of the problem was a pretty unusual looking move off a ramp and onto a big volume and Alex got it quickly, meaning that if Juliane couldn’t do it in 6 goes or less, Alex would be World Champion. It looked for a while like Juliane wasn’t going to figure it out but, buoyed by 6000 screaming fans, she stuck it with less than a minute left on the clock and took the win. Alex meanwhile, will still be pleased with a silver medal after what has been a disappointing season for her in the World Cups. Akiyo Noguchi, continuing her strong 2014, got third.
So there you have it – Adam Ondra and Juliane Wurm are the 2014 Boulder World Champions. The next event is in 2016 and takes place in Paris, France. The 2014 Lead World Championships, meanwhile, takes place in just 2 weeks time, in Gijon, Spain so we’ll be bringing you all the action from that event.
Climbing Daily - The freshest news in bouldering, sport climbing and alpinism presented by Matt Groom. Matt is a climber, mountaineer and long-term admirer of Jimmy Webb's beard. Based in Chamonix, France, he'll be bringing you all the latest from the world of climbing.
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