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Stefano Ghisolfi Repeats Chris Sharma's 'Demencia Senil' (9a+) | The Italian Climbing Files, Ep. 5

Stefano Ghisolfi Repeats Chris Sharma's 'Demencia Senil' (9a+) | The Italian Climbing Files, Ep. 5

20th July 2015
20th Jul 2015
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Italian strong man Stefano Ghisolfi made a pilgrimage to the Spanish climbing mecca of Margalef to attempt a piece of climbing history. 'Demencia Senil' (9a+/5.15a), first established by Chris Sharma in 2009, is a monumentally steep roof climbed almost exclusively on small, sharp pockets. The brutal nature of the climbing means that it has seen relatively few repeats and even fewer since a crucial hold was broken. Stefano and fellow Italian Gabri Moroni are in Margalef to try the line, working out a new way past the broken hold and trying to dial in the insane mono-dyno that is the only way through the final section of roof. While Gabri is unsuccessful, Stefano puts in a precise redpoint effort and clips the chains. His story in Margalef is far from over however and he plans to return for another Sharma classic; 'First Round, First Minute' (9b/5.15b). So far this line has only been climbed by Chris Sharma and Adam Ondra, so a third ascent would be something truly special. Stefano Ghisolfi Repeats Chris Sharma's 'Demencia Senil' (9a+) | The Italian Climbing Files, Ep. 5

Comments (4)

12 voters think this video is Epic
kizir86's picture
Chris Sharma's? I thought it has been bolted by Jordi Pou...
20th Jul 2015
Adam Butterworth's picture
I'm honestly a little hazy on the bolting Kizir. Chris definitely made the first ascent and as it was his ascent people are generally most familiar with I put in his name to help people recognise the route from the title. You raise a good point though and it is odd that sometimes the first ascensionist is more associated with a route than the person who developed it.
23rd Jul 2015
Pédro Daire Letelier's picture
this is an epic route. Congrats! Just wondering if someone knows where to see that "classic" video of Chris Sharma's FA of Demencia Senil? I've looking for it for ages. Thanks
20th Jul 2015
Adam Butterworth's picture
Afraid I'm in the same boat Pedro. I suspect it might be in one of the Dosage films but it's been too long since I've watched them. The Iker Pou footage is always worth a look though: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5lr_5m443WI
23rd Jul 2015
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