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How To Build And Equalise A Trad Climbing Anchor | Climbing Daily Ep.1174

How To Build And Equalise A Trad Climbing Anchor | Climbing Daily Ep.1174

Date
24th May 2018
24th May 2018
Video views
6.5K
Comments
3
During the recent Ar'cteryx Big Mountain Weekend we had a masterclass from Mountain Guide Adrian Nelhams on anchor building. On todays show we look at the specifics of building an anchor and how to equalise it using the rope. More information on Adrian's guiding here. Amazing deals on Trad gear here. Information on the Ar'cteryx Lakeland Revival here.

Comments (3)

3 voters think this video is Handy
stewart.murray's picture
You're right False, if this were a belay part way up the climb then best practice would be to have a piece for an upward pull. I think the scenario in the video is belaying at the top of the route so any pull will be downwards. By the figure of 8 do you mean using a figure 8 on a bight to tie the rope from the belay to the rope loop at the harness ie replacing the screw gate at the harness with a figure 8? This saves on karabiners, but I guess is slightly more complicated as it requires another type of knot.
9th Oct 2018
Gerner De Vynck's picture
Got a question too, why do you prefer to use you're belay plate like this, instead of placing it in the anchor, and use its auto block capability?
2nd Jun 2018
george_carlyle's picture
In Australia we prefer to have at least one figure of 8 knot in the system, and a piece of pro for an upward pull. I realise the video had to simplify, just concerned with equalising, but a leader falling from above this setup could lift the belayer and compromise the 2 stopper placements. What is your opinion?
30th May 2018
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