After the Everest disaster this spring, climbing in Nepal seemed to drop off the radar for this year. However, Russian pair Alexander Gukov and Alexey Lonchinskiy have quietly gone about their business and have successfully made the first ascent of the southwest face of Thamserku, a 6600m peak in the Khumbu region of Nepal. The face is easily accessed from the Everest base camp trail but has only seen one previous attempt before this spring.
Alexander and Alexey required 6 bivouacs on the face and encountered ice and mixed climbing, plus 4 pitches of aid climbing up to A2. They have calculated that the route required 1900m of climbing, which is over twice the height of Yosemite’s El Capitan. Once at the summit they then descended the south ridge and then made over 20 abseils down a different section of the southwest face.
Elsewhere in the Himalayas, teams are departing K2 base camp after a period of high winds and snowfall and are heading for a summit bid. The same is happening just up the Valley on Broad Peak and Gasherbrum II, but over on Masherbrum, we haven’t heard much from Austrian super alpinist David Lama, who’s hoping to attempt the North East face of the mountain. The face is 3500m high and has been dubbed as “impossible” by some climbers, but that’s they said about the north face of the Eiger less than 100 years ago. We’ll keep you updated as and when we hear more from David.
David Lama Attempts Ascent Of The 'Unclimbable' Masherbrum | EpicTV Climbing Daily, Ep. 319
EPICTV, the EPICTV logo and all other EPICTV marks are trademarks of Elisa Oyj. Banana Fingers and the Banana Fingers logo are trademarks of Banana Fingers Ltd.