Daniel Woods has made the second ascent of Paul Robinson's Lucid dreaming, ~8C, on the Grandpa Peabody at the Buttermilks, CA.
The problem adds a few very difficult moves, the hardest of which weighs in around ~8A+/B, to Rastaman vibration, a rarely repeated ~8A+.
Lucid dreaming was originally given 8C+ by Paul, but he then decided to call it 8C instead. It will be interesting to hear what Daniel has to say about it.
Adam Watson has recently climbed a major new-route at Back Bowden, after 5 years of effort. Adam has named the line Purgatory, and given it the grade of E8 7b. It climbs leftwards from Lost Cause, E4 6b, up the blunt arete to the right of Transcendence, E8 6c.
Footage Courtesy of:
Katherine Mundy - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hvRYIUMQlII
And to finish we have a review from our recent trip to ISPO of the new Scarpa F1 EVO boot. This may be a ski boot, but for any tough ice climbing approaches, or for any climbers out there who like a randonee this is a very interesting boot, automatic walk mode!
For all the latest gear reviews go to:
Daniel Woods Makes 2nd Ascent of Lucid Dreaming (V15/8C) | EpicTV Climbing Daily, Ep. 212
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