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Building Your Trad Climbing Rack | Climbing Daily Ep.861

Building Your Trad Climbing Rack | Climbing Daily Ep.861

27th January 2017
27th Jan 2017
On this week’s Friday Gear Show, Matt was unleashed on the EpicTV Shop’s big wall of shiny gear to pick some items that you might need for your trad rack. There is a vast array of gear out there designed to fit into every size crack or hole, but we are focusing on the first few items you need. Remember to comment below with your trad rack set up for you're chance to win a Wild Country Friend. If you want to check out the gear in the video, click the links below: https://shop.epictv.com/en/category/nuts, http://bit.ly/2jExoeb, https://shop.epictv.com/en/category/slings, https://shop.epictv.com/en/category/quickdraws, https://shop.epictv.com/en/category/nut-keys. To watch the full videos of the Climbing Daily mash up, click here. Building Your Trad Climbing Rack | Climbing Daily Ep.861

Comments (15)

7 voters think this video is Handy
samuel.haines89's picture
It is well know that climbing gear is expensive but unlike many other outdoor sports it is easy to spread out the purchases over time. During the process of building a rack you can still practice placing gear. Starting with a set of nuts you can bring them with you on a day of top roping or sport climbing and between climbs wonder around looking for placement. Look for multiple in one spot to se if you can build an anchor. On your next day out you may have a cam or two and can practice with that. Building anchors is a great way and a necessary skill for trad climbing so you can use what gear you have and incorporate trad gear into your top rope anchors. Once you have a full rack it is a helpful skill to see how you can place different pieces of gear in the same crack. From the ground you can practice building an anchor. Then take it down and see if you can build it again with out using any of the pieces from before. From this exercise you can get practice placing the piece that is not the most obvious which is helpful for when you might get to a belay and have already used half or more of your rack. All of these excursus you can do from the ground in a safe way and while you may be putting your rack together.
1st Feb 2017
eric.reichbaum's picture
Thanks Matt! Super helpful video, I'm looking to build my trad rack up as I just recently moved to the UK and sport climbs are hard to find (without jumping on a plane to Spain!) I tend to buy some nuts or a cam here and there when I can afford it, and eventually hope to have a full rack ready to go out and lead. I'm about halfway there! Can't wait to finish!
31st Jan 2017
Matt's Epic Vlogs's picture
Have a great trip to Spain, and thank you for the comment.
31st Jan 2017
dziad.z.lasu's picture
Learn to use your gear. practice a lot to be able to quickly choose the protection to place in. The shorter you hang struggling with finding adequate piece of gear, the more energy you save for climbing itself. Don't be affraid to mix brands and models of your cams and nuts. For example medium sizes of dual axle cams have significantly wider range than single axle. But this difference vanishes when it comes to bigger sizes (DMM 6 for example). So you can get lighter and cheaper single axle cams. As for nuts, different manufacturers make them in different shapes. Some models may fit better in some cracks. So experiment, borrow nuts from friends and try them on placements where you struggle to fit anything.
30th Jan 2017
false's picture
One thing that was not mentioned in this video is that trad climbing can be expensive! Purchasing this sort of gear should be done over time and only once a climber is sure that trad climbing is something that he or she wants to dive deeper into. I highly recommend that if you've never been trad climbing before that you find an experienced mate and make him or her show you what trad climbing is all about. By doing this you will get exposed to all different types of gear and will eventually find out what suits your needs best and tickles your fancies. Taking this approach to trad climbing has also lead to some of my more generous friends passing down gear that they no longer use but that is also still in good condition and completely safe. My fiance's father passed down his nearly unused trad gear to us and we ended up with some cool collector's items. We have some old school Yvon Chouinard cams that are in great shape. I have since retired these and they are now works of art hanging on the wall. In terms of new gear, I like the Blackdiamond C4s and C3s because of their flexible stem and overall feel, but I also feel great with the Metolious TCUs. That being said, the Wild Country Friend looks about the same as the Blackdiamon C4s with the added bonus of the extendable sling, which should definitely come in handy. To build on what others have already said, trad climbing is great fun, takes time, and just feels right, but take your time getting into this new area of climbing because the risks are most certainly greater.
30th Jan 2017
n.rowan44's picture
Great starting video, I've been climbing for about a year and the best two bits of advise that I have been given by experienced climbers are firstly, find a climbing buddy! We all know kit is expensive especailly when you are first starting out and having to get all of the basics. With a friend you can get a single rack of nuts and a couple of cams each and be set for a variety of climbs it works great with slings and what not as well. Secondly, when you are first starting out have a little wander about the face or some surrounding boulders looking for different sized cracks, seeing what nut fits where, how to place you cams so all of the lobes are in contact, out your weight on them and see what will hold and what will not. Hlaf an hour to an hour on the ground before your first couple of climbs will help you immensely when you're on the face desperately trying to guess which nut will fit.
30th Jan 2017
Matt's Epic Vlogs's picture
Some great tips, especially about practicing gear placements on the ground first.
31st Jan 2017
gavinconlon's picture
Iv been climbing for a couple of years now and the biggest advancement iv made/noticed while racking up is the amount of gear actually needed for a route . At the start I would have racked my Mum if she was UIAA rated . The problem with bringing every piece of gear you own is not just weight ( weights probably not going to be a problem on easy grades at the start ) , its more to do with how confusing and clumsy having all that gear on your rack will be . The best advice I was ever given was to take the time to look a route over , identify what gear is most likely to be needed and leave everything else behind . From the ground nut placements can be hard to spot but one full set should cover most cases ( at the start i used to being two sets plus offsets LOL ) . Its often clear from the ground what size cams are going to work . Another top tip is to bring lots of slings , they weigh nothing and are really versatile . threads , spikes and you can even use them as passively jammed pro ( check out Andy Kirkpatrick's online book on nuts , it has a bit about using knots in slings as jamming protection . )
29th Jan 2017
tomwright1234's picture
Get yourself a set of DMM Alloy offsets they are the best piece(s) of gear i have on my rack they seem to fit anywhere when your in need of a placement. Best tip for starting off trad climbing get loads of easy mileage then second some harder stuff and maybe repeat it when you feel more confident on placements and climbing
28th Jan 2017
Matt's Epic Vlogs's picture
Agreed, sets of offsets can be invaluable.
31st Jan 2017


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