Alexander Megos, the German teenager who made the world's first 9a onsight recently, has made the first ascent of what's probably the hardest route in Frankenjura, Classified, 9a+, on the Holzgauer wand. The new route, a 20m fiesta of small shallow pockets followed by even smaller shallower ones, is a direct exit to Guido Köstermeyer's Des Mos, 8b+, and was bolted by Christian Bindhammer some 10 years ago. It has since been tried unsuccessfully by both himself and Markus Bock. Will Atkinson has added a direct finish to the classic route Charlotte Rampling at Gardoms in the Peak District.This is a gritstone route with no gear at all. He has called it Hired Goons. Check out his video here: https://vimeo.com/64967928
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