Legendary Yosemite climber Hans Florine has just become the first person to rope solo El Capitan’s Triple Direct in a day. He managed to do the route, graded 5.9 A2, in just 17 and a half hours, making Triple Direct only the 7th El Capitan route to see a one day solo ascent. He took 2 falls during the process of climbing the route but his self belaying system obviously works well as he ended up with nothing more than a sore ankle.
Hans is known as being an exceptionally driven and competitive climber and has pursued speed records in Yosemite harder than just about anyone else in history.
Of the 7 routes on El Capitan which have been soloed in a day, Hans now holds the record on 3, having set blisteringly fast times on the West Face and Lurking Fear, both on the same day, back in June 2000. Incredibly enough, Hans is now 50 years old.
To finish the week, we’ve got the latest episode from Mammut’s brilliant series, “ReClimbing the Classics”. In this clip, EpicTV star and general climbing beast Mirko Caballero repeats Tony Yaniro’s “Grand Illusion”, which may well have been the World’s first 8a.
At the time of the first ascent, hanging around on a rope and practicing the moves was considered bad ethics so Tony got round the problem of working the route by building a replica of it at his house. Whatever the tactics, it’s produced an amazing line.
50-Year-Old Climber Claims Insane Solo Speed Record On El Cap | EpicTV Climbing Daily, Ep. 318
EPICTV, the EPICTV logo and all other EPICTV marks are trademarks of Elisa Oyj. Banana Fingers and the Banana Fingers logo are trademarks of Banana Fingers Ltd.