What is the safest and easiest way to place ice screws when on lead?

What is the safest and easiest way to place ice screws when on lead?

Mikhael Bonham's picture
By Mikhael Bonham | Jul 22nd 2015 |
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Dave Thexton's picture
Climbing Gear Geek
Aug 26th 2015
Hi Mikhael, Unlike traditional rock climbing protection, you shouldn't try to place ice screws above your head. You should try to make a stable platform with your feet wide and at the same height, make sure you have a solid axe placement with which to hold onto with your free hand. Place the screw around the height of your belly, ideally, your forearm should push the screw into the ice perpendicularly. You may need to remove some brittle ice before you actually place the ice screw. Here is a handy video from Arc'teryx that might explain more: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ayRmDzblwcE Hope that helps, Dave

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