What belay device would people advice I use for sport climbing?

What belay device would people advice I use for sport climbing?

Duncan Bottrill's picture
By Duncan Bottrill | May 29th 2015 |
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Duncan Bottrill's picture
UX Designer, athlete for Mad Rock, Nihil, ClimbSkin, Zlagboard.
May 29th 2015
I'm using an edelrid 9.8mm rope if that makes any difference?

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Duncan Bottrill's picture
UX Designer, athlete for Mad Rock, Nihil, ClimbSkin, Zlagboard.
May 29th 2015
I'd have a play with from friends ones if you can?

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wappu Lehtimäki's picture
Jun 9th 2015
I just tested the Mammut Smart and love it!! I used to use the ATC all the time, never got on with the GriGri that well but the Smart does the same safe auto-blocking but you handle it like you handle ATCs and similar. In general any auto-blocking belay device would work best for sport!

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tom.wood's picture
Aug 17th 2015
If you do not want an auto/semi-auto locking device and will only be sport climbing then you could go for a single rope belay device like the Black Diamond ATC sport. This is the single rope version of the ATC XP and has the same high friction mode for increased holding/stopping power.

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pradec1's picture
Sep 23rd 2015
For sport, I always use an auto-locking device and I prefer that my belay has one as well. I love my Cinch. It's simple and the only way to hold it and still give slack is the proper way of holding it. My wife uses the Mega Jul and loves it. She likes that the fundamental belay technique is identical to an ATC, but still auto-locks for her when her climber is projecting. GriGri's have the reputation of being handled improperly. This has happened to me while climbing/falling and I'm lucky to be alive. My belay used the "death grip" to give out slack and when I fell she locked her hands down. I survived because she grabbed my side of the rope and it burned right through her hand and she completely let go. The auto-locking nature of the device saved my life, hence always wanting my belay to have an auto-locking device.

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joe.vince.f's picture
Sep 24th 2015
I'll second the recommendation for the mammut smart. The only device I use now. It's relatively cheap, no mechanical/moving parts, works well. Does give a slight bit(literally less than an inch) but auto-blocks pretty well

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false's picture
Mar 9th 2016
Grigri 2... Lots of pros and cons especially when considering an auto blocking device but its popularity make it the ideal choice. It's reliable, easy to use, has been in production since 1991 (original grigri) and has been used by an incredibly large amount climbers in a variety of different conditions.

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Lorenzo Van Dee's picture
Mar 3rd 2019
I only recently got into the world of the GriGri with the "+". For alpine ascents i will still go for my Smart Alpine i think. BUT will still recommend the GriGri. It is a fantastic device.

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