Competition

Competition

jamey sellew's picture
By jamey sellew | Sep 15th 2015 |
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What shoes are best for indoor competition climbing.

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Adam Butterworth's picture
Sep 18th 2015
Hi Jamey, I'm afraid that the answer depends on a number of factors, from how seriously you're taking it to the type of problems you're likely to be climbing. Some competitors (particularly at the top level) will take multiple pairs of shoes into an event so that they can change them depending on the style of the problem. However, you'll probably come in for a bit of stick from your mates if you try that at your local climbing wall's winter league. If you're competing in boulder or lead climbing will also have an effect on the best option though obviously some shoes are good for both. As for the style of climbing, most competition walls (used for the finals) tend to be steeper on the whole, so a shoe with a reasonable downturn that allows you to put power through the heel and toe would be ideal. Remember however that you'll likely have to climb some slabs and vertical walls to qualify (and maybe even in the final) and something too aggressive might put you at a disadvantage on these. Overall, I'd recommend plumping for a shoe that balances all of these considerations. Something like the Scarpa Vapor V (http://shop.epictv.com/en/climbing-shoes/scarpa/vapor-v-2015), the La Sportiva Solution (http://shop.epictv.com/en/climbing-shoes/la-sportiva/solution-2015) or the Five Ten Hiangle (http://shop.epictv.com/en/climbing-shoes/five-ten/hiangle-2015) would be a good choice. However, the most important thing is that the shoe fits your foot well and helps you to feel secure and confident when climbing. As always it's never a bad idea to try before you buy! Hope that helps, Adam

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