Scarpa Vapor Lace - Long Term Test
The new Scarpa Vapor Lace climbing shoe has arrived at the EpicTV Shop. We all know how much climbing shoes change over time. As they stretch and mould to your feet, the feel of the shoe changes. It is almost impossible to draw a conclusion about a shoe after just one session or a brief climb. With that in mind we have decided to do a long-term test of this shoe. Take it away Matt…
I have been wearing an older model of the Scarpa Vapor Velcro for a while now and it’s quickly become my favourite climbing shoe. I have been looking for a shoe I can wear for long sport climbs and multi-pitches, yet still be aggressive enough so I can push my grade. On paper the Scarpa Vapor Lace ticks all of these boxes.
The rubber sole stretches the entire length of the shoe, rather than stopping mid-way like the Velcro model. This makes the shoe much stiffer and improves the way it climbs on small footholds. This stiffness continues with a rubber ‘exoskeleton’ that crisscrosses the out-side of the shoe. It features Scarpa’s tried and tested Vibram Xs Edge rubber, which I have used before and have always been impressed with the performance.
I went for a 8.5 UK size, with my street shoe normally a 9 UK. My toes are still crimped at the end but not as much as I usually prefer. I found the heel fit quite surprising as it wasn’t as snug as I was expecting, although this might just be my foot shape.
I climbed up to 7b sport routes and tried it on some steep bouldering, but nothing seemed to phase it. I was concerned that the loose feel of the heel would be an issue, but so far it hasn’t been a problem.
I’m still not 100% convinced about lace up shoes as it is an extra faff, however, it didn’t annoy me as much as I thought it would.