Ocún Release New Range Of Climbing Shoes
Ocún have been making climbing harnesses and crash mats for several years and they have recently diversified their range of products dramatically. On top of this, Ocún's sister company Rock Pillars, has merged with Ocún and the result is a complete range of 14 climbing shoes, all branded with Ocún's new logo.
With many of the Ocún shoes now in the EpicTV Shop, the EpicTV Climbing Team took it upon ourselves to find out more.
Crest LU Climbing Shoe
The Crest is Ocún’s beginner model and to this end, these shoes are perfect. The Crests comes in lace up and Velcro with both options offering an extremely comfortable fit. While some beginner shoes make great, comfortable all-day climbing shoes, the durability of the Crests would make me hesitate to recommend them for this use. At less than €60 though, they are a fantastic low-cost option for anyone out there who is just getting into the sport.
"The Crests were comfortable the second I put them on my feet!" - David Thexton
Pearl LU Climbing Shoe
In contrast to the Crests, the Pearls are a much more performance-focused climbing shoe. Their narrow profile and slightly downturned, pointed toe makes them most suited to steeper climbs. However, whether by design or not, the Pearl is not a particularly stiff shoe. As a result, they'll never be a model for pushing your limits on the hardest routes, but as an all-rounder, they're a great option. In fact, it you were to size up slightly, they would be an excellent choice for tackling long multi-pitch routes.
“The pointy toe on the Pearl was the highlight for me, especially when climbing on pocketed limestone” – Dave Searle
The Ozone Plus was by far and away the best of the Ocún shoes we tried. It took a bit of effort to squeeze into the Ozone but once managed, the shoe fitted in a way that was completely different to anything we'd tried before. This could be a result of Ocún’s “3-Force system”, a patented technology designed to stop the shoe from twisting when pressure is applied to the inner edge.
The shoes were surprisingly supple, but still performed very well on steep routes. The Ozones have also been armed with Vibram rubber instead of Ocún’s own Grippin’ rubber and come in both a women's and a men's version. Ocún themselves say that the ozone is a shoe for competition climbers and we couldn’t agree more; they'd be absolutely perfect for anyone spending focused on pushing themselves indoors.
“They’re a really interesting shoe...they were a bit different but they just stick to your feet and the rock.” – Lorand Demeter
The Diamonds are an out and out bouldering shoe. If you like your climbs more towards the horizontal then you will struggle to find a better shoe in Ocún’s range. We found them a little too uncomfortable to climb longer sport routes in, but if we'd had more time to test them, then they may have broken in a little.
The Diamonds use Vibram rubber instead of Ocún's own Grippin’ rubber and they are the only shoe in the range to use a combination of synthetic and natural leather suggesting that they might stretch out given time. However we'd still be hesitant to recommend downsizing as the Diamonds are both extremely tight and extremely downturned.
“Definitely worth the pain if you're looking to climb hard boulders!” – Hugo Pilcher