11th Oct 2013
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Climbing Wendenstöcke, Wild Hard Long Free | Infinite Jest, Ep. 1
Wendenstöcke is a BIG BIG climbing wall -- and Matteo Della Bordella and Fabio Palma are two climbers who have boldly opened routes on this monster wall. Hard, Long and Free are words that describe all the routes in Wendenstocke, but also Wild because of their engagement and the bivy they require in an isolated ledge of Mahren sector. The routes opened by Matteo Della Bordella are also very wild because of the necessity of bivyes, the length of the routes, the distance between protection. Matteo writes that 'About our opening style, I noted that, especially on pitches around grades 6 or 7, when tend to put a bolt just before a hard section and then we start climbing the hard section till it is over without putting anything in the middle, usually we put the other bolt in another position of rest...in this way, you create a route with bolts but with a strong alpinistic character, very different from a sport climbing route in mountain when bolts are almost always at a reasonable distance...' This explains why these routes are WILD HARD LONG and FREE. Climbing Wendenstöcke, Wild Hard Long Free | Infinite Jest, Ep. 1